Zeroing a slug gun. Ammo question?

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JPH
 
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Zeroing a slug gun. Ammo question?

Postby JPH » Mon Nov 09, 2009 5:47 am

I just bought a 12ga. NEF Pardner Model with a rifle barrel and a scope mount. They bore sighted my red dot at the shop, but I still need to zero it.

I will be hunting with Federal Premium, Vital Shock, Barnes Expander sabots. At $2.54 a round, they were the best bargain I could find in a sabot. Hunting on a budget ain't easy!

Anyway, I have a box of old rifled slugs from 10 years ago. I was thinking that I could save myself some money at the range. I want to use the old slugs to get close to the bulls-eye at 50 yds. Then I would make fine adjustments with the sabots. Once that is done, the 100 yd. zero should only take a few sabot rounds. Right?

Will using my old rifle slugs be a waste of time? How far from the sabot should they be? Also, should I consider zeroing at a different distance?
 

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Everyday Hunter
 
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RE: Zeroing a slug gun. Ammo question?

Postby Everyday Hunter » Mon Nov 09, 2009 6:44 am

I think your question comes down to this: Is it OK to shoot rifled slugs in a rifled barrel. I don't know the answer to that. Google might give you an assist. Also, there are several good message boards on shooting and ballistics.

Whether you go ahead with starting with the rifled barrel, I doubt anyone will be able to answer the question, "How far from the sabot should they be?" Too much depends on slug weight, velocity, ballistic coefficient, etc. My guess is that the rifled slugs are heavier.

Steve
When the Everyday Hunter isn't hunting, he's thinking about hunting, talking about hunting, dreaming about hunting, writing about hunting, or wishing he were hunting.
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shaman
 
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RE: Zeroing a slug gun. Ammo question?

Postby shaman » Mon Nov 09, 2009 6:56 am

ORIGINAL: JPH

I just bought a 12ga. NEF Pardner Model with a rifle barrel and a scope mount. They bore sighted my red dot at the shop, but I still need to zero it.

I will be hunting with Federal Premium, Vital Shock, Barnes Expander sabots. At $2.54 a round, they were the best bargain I could find in a sabot. Hunting on a budget ain't easy!

Anyway, I have a box of old rifled slugs from 10 years ago. I was thinking that I could save myself some money at the range. I want to use the old slugs to get close to the bulls-eye at 50 yds. Then I would make fine adjustments with the sabots. Once that is done, the 100 yd. zero should only take a few sabot rounds. Right?

Will using my old rifle slugs be a waste of time? How far from the sabot should they be? Also, should I consider zeroing at a different distance?



1)  I wouldn't think a few older slugs would hurt anything.  There's been talk of leading on here recently, but a few round is not going create a huge problem

2)  I would not bet the farm on one sabot round.  If you read the other slug-related threads, you'll see what I mean.

My advice:  Start cheap and work your way up.  If you can get it done with less expensive rounds, do so.

My thought provoking question for the day:  Why is it that guys get all cranked up about having the challenge of bows, and then they turn around and want to go super-tech on shotgun slugs?  Why not use punkin balls and hunt at bow ranges and be done with it? 

. . . but then I'm a troglodyte that shoots Remmie Sluggers out of a smooth barrel and is happy with 60 yards.
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JPH
 
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RE: Zeroing a slug gun. Ammo question?

Postby JPH » Mon Nov 09, 2009 7:11 am

ORIGINAL: shaman

My thought provoking question for the day:  Why is it that guys get all cranked up about having the challenge of bows, and then they turn around and want to go super-tech on shotgun slugs?  Why not use punkin balls and hunt at bow ranges and be done with it? 



Ooh! Good question.

I can only speak for myself here but I have never striven to use any implement that would limit my accuracy or killing power once I touch the trigger (or release, as it were). I do prefer in intimate nature of bow hunting, but that is about the season timing rather than the weapon itself. My choice of weapon is largely dictated by my budget.

But back to the initial question, if we may.

CB on the run
 
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RE: Zeroing a slug gun. Ammo question?

Postby CB on the run » Mon Nov 09, 2009 7:40 am

My experience with 'slug guns' dates back 30 years. Rifled slug barrels can be rather fincky. Shooting a foster type(rifled-very misleading, there is no spin imparted upon the projectile when fired through a smoothbore) slug through a fully rifled barrel will not harm it per se. It may leave lead build up behind that could impare the barrels accuracy. Foster slug are made under sized purposefully and the diagonal striations are a safety feature which is in case they are shoot through a tightly choked barrel. So you want to shoot an undersized lead ball that was developed in the late 1800's and based upon a shuttlecock down your modern day rifled slug barrel to save $18. Your call, it may get you close or it may not. I've never tried it. May I suggest Lightfield sabot slugs usually available at around $10 a box. They are fairly accurate out of most rifled barrels. The lead is soft and the sabot is attached which I believe causes them not to exit deer in most cases. I hunt with the Federal Barnes Expanders as I prefer 2 holes if possible. I would start at 25 yards. your red dot will cover 4"-5" at 100 so I would sight in 2"-3" high at 50 which will put you in a ball park at 100 but that red dot will limit your accuracy at that distance so I would waste too much ammo at 100. A scope would gave better accuaracy.
As Mr. Shaman stated, one brand of ammo may not group well out of the gun. I not sure what the rate of twist is out of the NEF barrels but a quicker twist will usually stablized at quicker round. Depending which Federal Expander load you purchased, it can be traveling at 1400fps for the traditional hollowpoint or as quick as 1900fps for the new ballistic tipped expander. There have been good reports on the Remington Accutip rounds.
Keep the barrel clean at the range, I use a bore snake about every 5 shots with a solvent. Keep the barrel as cool as possible, I usually try wait 10 minutes between shots.
Sand bag the gun with the front bag right at the action, not further down the barrel. Good luck.

CB

mgemmill
 
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RE: Zeroing a slug gun. Ammo question?

Postby mgemmill » Mon Nov 09, 2009 2:28 pm

I have found that my H& R ultra slug 12ga likes Copper solids, Brenneke golds and Lightfields. My 20 H&R likes Hastings and Remington Accu tips. Your gun is about the same. I shoot alot, I start at 25 some times but mostly shoot a 4x4 piece of card board with a shoot n c target in the middle. As I shoot i find my hole and try to get it to the target with one more shot. If u have help shoot dead on center find the hole put the scope back on center and have a second person move the cross hairs to cover the hole. This is a very easy way to save ammo. Then I fine tune , usually only take one more shell. I am 46 and have been slug hunting since I was 12. I think I 've shot 'em all. LOL Hope this helps !!!!

Bowtechian
 
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RE: Zeroing a slug gun. Ammo question?

Postby Bowtechian » Tue Nov 10, 2009 2:45 pm

From what I've read in regards to your slug question, it's not recomended to shoot rifled slugs through rifled barrels due to the rifling on slugs & in barrels going in oposite dirrections. It may not hurt to take a few shots, but continuous use of rifled slugs will have a negative effect on your barrel. According to Lightfield, slug guns should be sighted in while the slug is supersonic,(above 1220 fps.), so they say to sight in at 50 yards. They have a chart to follow for the type of slug you are using, so you sight in a couple inches high at 50 to be zeroed at 100 or 125 depending on the slug.
 
It may save you a couple dollars using old slugs first, but it may not be worth it in the long run.
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charlie
 
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RE: Zeroing a slug gun. Ammo question?

Postby charlie » Tue Nov 10, 2009 3:08 pm

First i think you start at25 yards not totaly sure when you sight it in. I use slugs with a smooth bore and sabots with a rifled barrel then use cheap ammo to test and good ammo when i'm satisfied with the shot pattern and sights are on.  hope this helps.

Squirrelhawker
 
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RE: Zeroing a slug gun. Ammo question?

Postby Squirrelhawker » Wed Nov 11, 2009 3:54 am

ORIGINAL: shaman

ORIGINAL: JPH

I just bought a 12ga. NEF Pardner Model with a rifle barrel and a scope mount. They bore sighted my red dot at the shop, but I still need to zero it.

I will be hunting with Federal Premium, Vital Shock, Barnes Expander sabots. At $2.54 a round, they were the best bargain I could find in a sabot. Hunting on a budget ain't easy!

Anyway, I have a box of old rifled slugs from 10 years ago. I was thinking that I could save myself some money at the range. I want to use the old slugs to get close to the bulls-eye at 50 yds. Then I would make fine adjustments with the sabots. Once that is done, the 100 yd. zero should only take a few sabot rounds. Right?

Will using my old rifle slugs be a waste of time? How far from the sabot should they be? Also, should I consider zeroing at a different distance?



1)  I wouldn't think a few older slugs would hurt anything.  There's been talk of leading on here recently, but a few round is not going create a huge problem

2)  I would not bet the farm on one sabot round.  If you read the other slug-related threads, you'll see what I mean.

My advice:  Start cheap and work your way up.  If you can get it done with less expensive rounds, do so.

My thought provoking question for the day:  Why is it that guys get all cranked up about having the challenge of bows, and then they turn around and want to go super-tech on shotgun slugs?  Why not use punkin balls and hunt at bow ranges and be done with it? 

. . . but then I'm a troglodyte that shoots Remmie Sluggers out of a smooth barrel and is happy with 60 yards.

 
Good question for sure and one I have never considered. I guess it could be -what is the best one can do within the limitations of the implement. And you would have to consider all the different permutations of each implement ie trad,recurve,compound, ML, slug gun, etc.
 
I have always looked to get the max performance from all my gear in all seasons. I think there may be some difference between the inherent challenges of any bow and punkin balls from a smoothbore. Maybe not though


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