Which slugs to use

[mudder800]

I am going to be getting a new shotgun this year for the wisconsin deer season. I will be getting a browning silver deer stalker. I was wondering what type of slug should I shooy through it. If anybody has this gun, what kind do you shoot.

[Vikinghater]

I just today (sunday) went to the range with four types of slugs to try.  Winchester partition golds , winchester xp3's , federal fusions and remington accu-tips.  This was thru an 870 remington and the accu-tips were the best but not by much.  the partition golds were a close second.

[mudder800]

ORIGINAL: Vikinghater

I just today (sunday) went to the range with four types of slugs to try.  Winchester partition golds , winchester xp3's , federal fusions and remington accu-tips.  This was thru an 870 remington and the accu-tips were the best but not by much.  the partition golds were a close second.

Im guessing it shot the remington slugs the best becouse its a remington gun. I'm hoping someone with a browning silver or gold slug gun will reply and what slugs they use.

[Vikinghater]

I dont think that at all.   The win. slugs shot almost as good and I just read an article in north american whitetail where the guy shoots winchester partition gold's and from the picture he was holding a browning shotgun. 

[lonlon]

Bret who? Go PACK Go! I like Hornady Sabots, deadly accurate out to 150 out of a T/C Pro Hunter slug barrel. Shoot what your gun likes best I would say. Cheeshead LonLon

[shaman]

There have been several threads on here about similar subjects.

Probably no one can tell you what the best load is for your new shotgun, because it is highly variable.  Each shotgun seems to like its own.

1)  Start cheap and work up.
2)  Slugs have a better chance of working than sabots.
3)  Think about the working range of most of your deer hunting-- 50-80 yards is usually plenty for most deer you'll encounter. 
4)  When you find something you like, buy a lot of it.  Loads vary year to year and lot to lot.

Yes, you can have a 100 yards shotgun.  You can have a 200 yard shotgun, but the cost of finding out goes up precipitously as you push the goal further out.   I know guys who burn $200-300 a year trying to make the ultimate group with their shotguns.

Me?  I printed cloverleafs with the first box of Remington sluggers I fired out of my Rem 1100.  It was only at 50 yards, but I was primarily a bow hunter so 50 yards was plenty.    I stopped looking and went hunting.

[CB on the run]

Look for past posts on this topic. There has been much debate. I have experience with over a dozen slug guns and I currently shoot Federal Barnes expanders(hollowpoint verision) out of both my slug guns but I do admit that I have some more experimenting to do with my 20ga. A lot has to do with the rate of twist in your rifled barrel. Bore diameter is also a consideration. All slug guns are not created equal. The Browning Gold I had experiences with was a 20ga. It shot Lightfields the best but Federal Barnes expanders were a fairly close second and I much perfer an entrance and an exit which you often will not get with Lightfields. Just because a gun is brand X doesn't mean it shoots brand X's slugs the best. Extensive testing is needed. Done correctly you will be spending several hundred dollars.
My recommedations: Find out the rate of twist in your barrel. Generally a slower rate of twist does better with a slow slug(1400fps range) and a quicker twist will stablize a fast slug(1600fps & over). Sandbag the gun at the range. Allow 10-15 minutes(YES!) between shots. This allows the barrel time to cool and helps with the recoil flinch. Clean the barrel every 4-5 shots(YES!). I use a bore snake & solvent then clean patches. Plastic build up forms quickly and affects your accuracy. Lastly, have that trigger worked. I'm not a gambling man but I can almost guarantee that your Browning Gold trigger is 8-9lbs from the factory. I will not buy a slug gun that my gunsmith cannot re-work the trigger. Good luck.
I just read the post above. Mr. Shaman gives a lot of good advice. But, if you have a rifled barrel, only shoot saboted slugs. Some people will say to go ahead and shoot regular foster type slugs through a rifled barrel and then use elbow grease to remove the lead fowling. If you are never going to switch back to sabot slugs this maybe OK but if you ever want to use a rifled barrel as intended don't shoot rifled slugs through it. IMO

[shaman]

CB:  I'd at least partially agree.  Non-sabots don't necessarily lead to lead fouling.  One thing is for certain, only shoot slugs that are meant for rifled barrels out of a rifled barrel.  I shot the 2 3/4" Brennekes and the 3"  Rem Copper Solids for years out of the Mossberg and never had a fouling problem.   However, if you get something like a plain old Foster like the Remmie Slugger, you might have trouble.  The Slugger and several others are built for smooth bores only. They have integral fins that put a spin on the round-- a spin that is going to be different than the spin that might be imparted by the rifling.

[Squirrelhawker]

Like many here, I have used many, tried many, and there has been much debate. I agree somewhat with starting cheap.
 
I don't see how anyone could go wrong with the Win partition Golds. I have pretty much stopped experimenting since using them. Ridiculous accuracy and performance at some really long ranges.

[CB on the run]

ORIGINAL: shaman

They have integral fins that put a spin on the round-- a spin that is going to be different than the spin that might be imparted by the rifling.

Are you referring to the striations on the side of typical foster type slugs from Remington, Winchester and Federal? If so they are a designed safety type feature to allow the lead slug to squash or compact slight if accidently shot through a very tight choke so the end of the barrel doesn't rupture.

CB