Tower deer stand project

[retch sweeny]

So I have had inquires about what I plan to do with this prototype tower blind and is I would be willing to part with it. The answer is yes but you have to get past the helpers I had making it. Here is Joe guarding the stand. He wont let anybody near it. He is guarding it now with the rifle I posted earlier and has set up his own "occupy" camp.



He only lets his other friend Joe near the stand. Both are ex-military and have bad attitudes. I thought the photo of the rifle in the blind would have tipped some folks off since it has two triggers (the second one being for the grenade launcher)



Plus they have this huge guard dog named Roscoe patrolling the perimeter.



They are all jacked up on Soda in massive quantities.



If you haven’t figured it out by now, this is a 3/16 scale prototype model that I built to help me address all the design concerns ahead of time rather than after spending much $$$ on treated wood when I build the real stands. Here is one of my “Scale” 2 by 4’s on a real 2 by 4.



Here are the scale sized nails I used.



Here is Joe taking a break after helping test the stand.



The lumber I cut and stacked for that first photo was all cut on my table saw. The banding on that stack of 2 by 4’s is just a thin strip of black electrical tape I cut with a razor.

[kellory]

Very nicely done! Good attention to detail. My son builds models, and wants to build them for the movies, So I should have seen that, I guess you see what you expect to see. well played.

[retch sweeny]

I began working on the full scale tower stand over the holidays. The one issue I did not address with the scale model was the windows, namely the design and how they would open. At first I thought sliding side by side would be a good option but I forever lose half the window. I didn’t want a hinged design that either swung in or out because of the motion and the issues with keeping them open at a time when a deer approaches so I am messing around with a vertical slider with a counter weight balance system which makes the window very easy to open and keeps it in the open position without having to secure the window.

The Plexiglas and wood frame is 15 inches by 42 inches and weighs about 5 pounds The window rides in tracks on each end and slides up but the weight of the window was a bit much for super easy opening so I used the type of counter weight system so many milk house doors had on the farm.

I have not yet removed the protective film on both sides of the window nor have I installed the felt sliders to quiet the window but I got a chance to play around with the design to see if this is the route I want to go. Here is a view from the inside. The handle to open the window is a coat hook I modified and turned upside down.



The sill and sash on the outside are made from treated lumber and painted. I installed the sill at quite an angle to ensure water run-off as I don’t want water to get into the bottom track of the window and then freeze.



In the widow itself I installed a weather shield sort of mini awing made of aluminum. It’s the angle piece used for suspended ceilings.



With the window open, you can see how it protects the bottom track from rain. On each vertical end, I installed a “P” shaped piece of adhesive backed weather stripping also to keep water out.



To further detour rain, I added a wood strip above the entire window and then used a piece of roofing material called a gutter apron only I used it upside down to act as an additional awing to keep rain out.





Here is a picture of the temporary rope I used to tie the window to the counter weight. After opening the window a few times and hearing the hard stop I installed a block of wood and a piece of sticky backed foam above the window to quiet the stop.



Here is a video of the window being opened. It takes very little effort to lift. The “Clunking” sound you hear at the top of the window opening is not the hard stop but rather the crude counter weight at the other end of the rope as it swings and hits the wall. For a better and quieter counter weight I envision a PCV tube with the right amount of weight (perhaps sand) with end caps on the PVC tube. That sand weighted PVC would slide inside a slightly larger piece of PVC tucked into the corner near the floor. This keeps the weight from being bumped or swinging and making noise.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QTON8raS ... e=youtu.be

It looks promising so far. I still need to work on making the windows quieter.

[kellory]

What you have designed, is a standard sash window. Your sandbags take the place of sash wieghts. This is how almost all of the older double sash pane windows work in older houses. It is also similar in concept to a garage door,(which I happen to install and work on) If intrested, and with a litle more accuarate info, I could calculate the torsion spring nessisary to counter wieght that sash. and a list of the parts to do it. let me know. Side note: both sides of the sash could be counterwieghted by the same wieght, with the added advantage of a smoother lift.(No independant movement)

[retch sweeny]

Since the sun and its UV rays as well as the grit carried in the wind as well as rain, snow and the risk of birds trying to fly through the blind only to smash into the Plexiglas are all negatives that are likely to occur during the 8 months this blind will sit idle every year, I have decided to install off-season shutters to protect the windows and further weatherproof the blind. The other reason in doing so is that it costs very little to provide this protection since the shutter is made from the scrap created by cutting the window opening. The small latches and hinges came to less than $6.00. In the following pictures, I have removed the aluminum awning made from the gutter apron that will be installed above the window. In prior pictures I held it in place with tape for the photo. The aluminum is too fragile for the rigors of transportation so it will be installed on-site once the blind is erected.

Here is the view from the outside with the shutter raised.





The shutter sits against the lip created by extending the window sash.





I installed a wooden handle to raise and lower the shutter as well as 2 latches to keep the shutter closed.








The handle has a deep finger groove to make it easy to grab and hold on while raising the shutter.





The view from the outside with the shutter lowered.





This seems like a good and low cost way to protect the windows.

[kellory]

I would suggest your wood stopblock be raised a bit, and the foam be discarded in favor of a return spring from any hardware store or the bottom of a large flashlight. It should give it a smooth, quiet stop. And your counterweight should not strike down but be suspended. Again, a return spring between the wieght and it's end point, would make it much quieter. It is a nice design though, and should last a long time. I would also suggest a pair of 3inch garage door pulleys in place of the screw hooks, for a very easy, non-abrasive gliding action. space it off the wall with a washer or two, and lag it directly to the wall.

[retch sweeny]

I finally got some free time to work on the blind now that its warm enough. I got the remaining walls built and positioned them together for a fit-up and so I can start working on the rest of the shutters and sliding windows.





The box now has two coats of Behr Premium exterior paint and the off season shutters are installed. The shutters will protect the stand and especially the Plexiglas windows during the 9 months of the year the stand sits outside unused and exposed to the elements.



The view from inside. I have yet to install the sliding Plexiglas windows on the inside.



The door has a smaller window and the Plexiglas will not open like the windows on the walls. As such, I had to install a dead bolt on the outside to keep it closed in the off season



Here the shutters are down.



There is a self adhesive foam gasket all around the window opening that the shutter touches to make a weather tight seal. Now its time to build the roof.

[gatodoc]

Great job.....I'd be interested in your estimated materials costs...Your design layout is invaluable of course....

[retch sweeny]

I generated a bill of materials and took it to both Home Depot and Menards to cost it out. It comes to about $500.

[gatodoc]

You sir are to be congratulated for building such a high quality stand at such a reasonable price. I wonder if anyone's considered selling kits with detailed instructions for dummies like me to get the lumber and assemble. Granted, that's pretty much what you've offered here, but I'm a time restricted carpentry klutz. I do admire what you've done though. I'd like to see pix if you get it set up in the woods...posting.php?mode=reply&f=5&t=22209#