broadheads affecting arrow flight

[glcMI]

I had been practicing shooting throughout the summer with increasing success as the season approched, and was in a 5 inch circle at anywhere between 15-40 yards with 125 grain field points.  One day, just for the heck of it, I thread on my broadheads- 125 grain as well, and my shot is off 1 foot to the right and about six inches low.  I'm puzzled.  No matter what yardage I shot, I ended up with the same problem, compounded the further I was away from the target.  I've continued practice with the broadheads, and instead of 're-sighting in', I am compensating for this "phenomenon" and can now shoot a decent spread, but would like to figure out what is causing my arrows to fly so differently with a broadhead compared to a field point of the same weight.  Any suggestions?

[paulie]

Most fixed blade heads(and some mechanicals) will fly differently than field points. The reason is, there is more surface area which causes them to "plane", or catch the wind, and that effects their flight, typicaly, the bigger the head, the more wind plane youll get. I think this problem is amplifid by any "tuning" issues you may have with your set up. You may want to visit your local pro shop, and have them give your rig the 'once over' just to see if any adjustments are needed.

[striker]

like paulie said take it to a pro shop and have it tuned. I had the same problem and had my bow tuned and now my broadheads fly almost identical to my field points. Any flaws in shooting form will also be exaggerated with broadheads but if it's off the same every time it's probably just out of tune.

[ranwin33]

Most likely tuning problems.  You might also try a different broadhead.  I've noticed different brands all fly a little differently for me.

[Squirrelhawker]

ORIGINAL: paulie

Most fixed blade heads(and some mechanicals) will fly differently than field points. The reason is, there is more surface area which causes them to "plane", or catch the wind, and that effects their flight, typicaly, the bigger the head, the more wind plane youll get. I think this problem is amplifid by any "tuning" issues you may have with your set up. You may want to visit your local pro shop, and have them give your rig the 'once over' just to see if any adjustments are needed.

 
Definitely tuning. And totally right on about broadheads amplifying any small problems.

[mag30079]

95% of the time its bow tuning. Here's one of the 5% of the times. One brand of arrows I shoot would not work with my fixed broadheads. The broadhead wouldn't sit flush to the insert because of the radius of the broadhead. Sometimes broadhead makers supply washers, this didn't work for this application. I took a countersink and opened up the radius (lightly machined it). Now the broadhead sits flush to the insert and flys perfect. Sometimes its arrow tunning but most of the time look at your bow first.

[Jawbone]

Having your bow tuned at a pro shop may get you close but unless your there with them to shoot your bow they can never adjust for how you grip, hold, aim, and release.  All these little things are different person to person.  I suggest you watch and learn as they go through the process and know your equipment inside and out.  You never now when something may go wrong on a hunt and there's nobody to help you.  Joining a local archery club is a good way to to do this.  As far as your arrow flight problem, longer fletching may be needed to help stabellize your arrow. 4"  should do with proper tuning.  You could also switch to a good expandable which will fly very similar to if not exactly as your field points.  I'm not gonna make any friends with this comment but I suggest a drop away rest as apposed to a whisker buiscet for the simple fact that less contact with the arrow ='s better flight.  I used to work in a pro shop and have been shooting archery for 20 years both competetively and for hunting. Hope this heps and good luck!!!

[paulie]

ORIGINAL: Jawbone

Having your bow tuned at a pro shop may get you close but unless your there with them to shoot your bow they can never adjust for how you grip, hold, aim, and release.  All these little things are different person to person.  I suggest you watch and learn as they go through the process and know your equipment inside and out.  You never now when something may go wrong on a hunt and there's nobody to help you.  Joining a local archery club is a good way to to do this.  As far as your arrow flight problem, longer fletching may be needed to help stabellize your arrow. 4"  should do with proper tuning.  You could also switch to a good expandable which will fly very similar to if not exactly as your field points.  I'm not gonna make any friends with this comment but I suggest a drop away rest as apposed to a whisker buiscet for the simple fact that less contact with the arrow ='s better flight.  I used to work in a pro shop and have been shooting archery for 20 years both competetively and for hunting. Hope this heps and good luck!!!

  Very good points! Oh and dont worry, not everyone here shoots a bisquit. Myself, I shoot a QAD ultra pro series, and I love it!  One thing you didnt mention (that may help) is a helical fletching.

[Highlander Archery]

MOA in archery is 1" groups at 20, 2" at 30 and 3" at 40.

Your problems are related to one or more of the following.

1. Center Shot is off causing the arrow to leave the bow at an angle
2. Your form is poor
3. Draw length too long
4. Nock point too high again causing the arrow to leave at an inappropriate angle.

[jaybyrd450r]

had same problem i shoot 100 grain muzzy 4 blade had new set up from bow shop so i carried it back and shot in his indoor range he doubled checked every thing and all was good so his advice was to only shoot the practice broad to site in my bow and i had no more problems but it is kinda hard on your target