Shooting high from a tree stand in spite of the Geometry

[msbadger]

I have an arch range finder...and to be perfectly honest there isn't much difference in the distances on the display...at least from height and distance I normally shoot....now I don't use sights and have on occasion shot deer close to the stand...closest was a mercy kill at about five yards out and I was standing 16 ft up....because my aiming point is the tip of my broadhead...and from experience ...practicing all distances from a stand....When I shot that deer I wasn't aiming on him but at the ground behind his front leg....I hit him just a bit high behind his shoulder...he went ten yards and piled up.....to me it's all relative for where I hunt the ground isn't flat the deer may be extremely low to me at 20 yards or at my eye level from a 16 foot tree...depends on where I set up...so to me it's form and practice that makes the kill...range finders should just be used as a general guide to what your mind and body should already be dialed into

[Joel Spring]

Your math theory doesn't matter at all . The distance you need to be concerned with is the distance from the base of the tree to the deer (horizontal distance) . So in your example , the distance to be considered is 30 yards . It's that simple !

That's the answer. I use my range finder -- before the season. I mark out 10, 20 and 30 usually with some small twigs stuck in the ground. I always mark the range from the base of my tree to the target area. You simply can't go wrong this way. I don't buy the "changed anchor point" or "bent at the waist" changes in accuracy. Practice in your yard from a treestand and you won't see any huge changes in your shooting form come hunting season.

[kellory]

Your math theory doesn't matter at all . The distance you need to be concerned with is the distance from the base of the tree to the deer (horizontal distance) . So in your example , the distance to be considered is 30 yards . It's that simple !

That's the answer. I use my range finder -- before the season. I mark out 10, 20 and 30 usually with some small twigs stuck in the ground. I always mark the range from the base of my tree to the target area. You simply can't go wrong this way. I don't buy the "changed anchor point" or "bent at the waist" changes in accuracy. Practice in your yard from a treestand and you won't see any huge changes in your shooting form come hunting season.

Instead of little twigs, try aluminum gutter spikes, I paint mine hunter's orange and use them as range pins. light weight, and last forever. very east for us to see, even in low light.

[Proline]

Pretty much everything above I buy into.....but if your 18 ft up in treestand and you use your range finder out to 25 yds the distance it gives you vs doing it on the ground at the bottom of the tree isn't material enough to worry about. Your in the kill zone.

[Big Horse]

My 13 year old explained this to me a while back. LOL.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6mIt4Fd7HXE

[EatDeer]

I'm placing my 25 yard pin higher on the vitals ( right under the spine) at 22 foot up in the tree.

On a normaly placed pin, the heart shot ,because of the higher shooting angle, the arrow tends to go under the vitals missing clean.

Shooting higher on the back , if the deer jumps the string, then its a clean miss over the back, or a lucky hit in the spine.

This confuses me, and probly alot of others new to bow hunting.

Shot placement really depends on if the deer is going to crouch to jump at the sound of the shot, or just stand there.