Muzzy I think you've received some good advice based on others experiences. Realize that your mileage will vary depending upon the equipment your shooting as well as how the bow is setup and tuned for YOU...which will also vary based on your draw length, draw weight, brace height, arrow shaft selection and length as well. All these variables are the starting point to selecting the right bow for you. There are hundreds of bows out there and no two will shoot alike for you. My recommendation would be to strongly consider going to your local proshop and allowing them to fit you with the right bow. Yes, it may be more expensive than going to one of the mega sporting goods stores or buying a bow off ebay. But that first critical step starts with trying out different bows and actually shooting them to see how they feel in your hand. Once you find one, let the local pro size the right bow for you. Many underestimate how critical it is to get the right draw length the first time around and i can tell you from personal experience if your draw length is incorrect, everything else that follows (proper anchor, form, etc) will suffer and it won't matter how good a shot you are or how fast your bow is...your just not going to shoot consistently. A local pro will also watch your form...just as critical to shooting consistently and without good form its all for not. How do you find a good local proshop? Talk to other hunters/archers, check recommendations on your local forums, meet with the shop owners and talk to them. One or two will rise to the top and you'll know it just by talking to them. Then have them work with you to set you up the right way...trust me when I tell you it will save you much heartache down the road. They can also provide recommendations on accessories...remember they have experimented with many accessorizes and they have a vested interest in carrying the accessories that perform well with the lines they carry, otherwise they would not be in business. Arrow shaft selection, size and spine is equally critical to ensure your arrows fly true and have the proper weight to speed ratio for penetration and pass throughs. With today's modern bows the high energy cams demand stiffer spined arrows and many of the manufacturers have failed to account for this in their arrow shaft selection charts...and as a result many tend to be underspined thus lacking the kinetic energy for solid penetration and pass throughs...as Woods Walker said, speed means nothing if your not getting good penetration.
Lastly you asked about paper tuning. A good pro shop will help you paper tune your bow. If they tell you its not necessary or overated I would personally steer clear from them. Paper tuning does nothing more than ensure your arrows fly true out of the gate..meaning you are looking to shoot an almost perfect bullet hole through paper at about 3 yards. Why is this important? It validates your equipment is setup correctly, that your rest is at centershot, your knock point is at its correct height, your shooting the properly sized arrows for your set up, and your not torquing the bow. Many will say why is that important if I'm shooting accurately and achieving 1/2 dollar size groups at 20+ yards? True as that may be, the answer is its important because you made an investment in equipment with the expectation that it will perform optimally. If your arrows are fishtailing, porpoising, making contact with the rest, or your torquing the grip that all translates to a loss in efficienciency, by way of arrow speed, kinetic energy, or consistency in form. Without paper tuning you'd likely never know it because the fletchings do what they are designed to do which is straighten the arrows flight out down range.
Hope all this helps in your quest, best of luck and if you need any help don't hesitate to ask.