There is no “one size fits all” in the world of arrows and arrow building. There are different strokes for different folks, and the to-come advice will help you decide what’s best for you.

Some guy’s tie flies; I build arrows. For me, the arrow-building process is both relaxing and rewarding, and when you run a shaft through a rib cage you put some TLC into, it’s a great feeling. The problem: The arrow-building waters can be tough to negotiate. There are piles of vane lengths and types on the market. Then, there’s vane orientation to consider. Do you plan to go with a straight fletch, offset or, right- or left-helical?  What about fletch number? Do you plan to go with a standard three-fletch or an all-the-current-rave four-fletch?

Clear as mud?

I get it. The good news: Don’t be. You need to go to fletch school, and since I geek out about all things arrows, the to-come intel will help significantly with the learning curve.

First, what type of arrow are you shooting? Are you on the light or heavier side of the GPI (grains per inch) rating per your bow’s poundage? Is your arrow an ultra-micro diameter like Easton’s 4MM Axis Long Range or a slightly larger diameter arrow like Easton’s 6.5 MM Acu-Carbon Bowhunter? I ask because different arrow builds create different drag elements based on their design and the broadhead and fletch attached to them. While all Easton arrows are designed to hit the mark, some are geared more toward long-range shooting and others toward mid- to close-range shooting.

Second, are you shooting fixed-blade or mechanical broadheads? This is the first step in figuring out what type of vane you need to go with and how to orient that vane. Mechanical broadheads, much like field points, produce very little drag. With the blades tucked into the ferrule, the wind has less surface area to press against. Most fletch orientations will stabilize a mechanical broadhead, especially when shot at distances inside 40 yards, where most shots on whitetail deer are taken. Still, a mechanical head is not as streamlined as a field point. There are exposed wings, collars and ferrules tend to be longer. Never believe a mechanical head shoots precisely like a field point until you’ve tested it out to the farthest distance you plan to take a shot. This is where an offset fletch comes in. An offset fletch reduces drag and boosts the accuracy of the mechanical head at extended distances. An offset fletch (right or left) is simple — the fletch is offset from the front of the vane to the back, rather than running straight down the shaft. This design creates arrow spin, and spin helps stabilize a broadhead-tipped arrow in flight. Most any fletching jig manufacturer worth their salt will have arms designed to provide an offset fletch. Visit jig websites like Bohning, Bitzenburger, and AAE for more info.

When it comes to vane choice, mechanical shooters can go short. I prefer a vane like Easton’s new Bully Vane as well as Bohning’s tried-and-true Blazer. Both vanes measure roughly 2 inches long, feature a steep leading-edge angle, and are constructed from ultra-stiff material. This design allows air to slide over the vane and create lift, which leaves the tip of each vane undisturbed in the air. I’ve shot both vanes extensively, and few are better when it comes to steering mechanical broadheads and field points.

Like broadheads, however, I also recommend you play with different vane types. Few things build confidence and quickly tell you what steers your arrow/broadhead combo the best, like testing. Typically, I tinker with three different vane types at a time. I fletch three arrows with each vane type, giving me nine arrows total. Then, I go to work. Shoot each vane/arrow/broadhead combo at distances short and far, as well as in calm and windy conditions. Quiver the arrow that delivers your heads on the mark time and time again and flies hushed through the air. Another one of my all-time favorite vane choices is AAE’s Hybrid 23.

If you’re shooting fixed-blade broadheads, the fletch game changes a tad more. Know right off the bat a fixed-blade-tipped arrow will produce more front-end drag. This is because the exposed blades protrude out the ferrule, and many of those blades are vented. Yes, there are some single-bevel solid blade heads and even some three- and four-blade replaceable blade solid-blade heads, but for the most part, fixed-blade heads feature vented blades. The design, while 100% failproof, does give the wind more to work with. The best way to combat this drag and ensure your fixed-blade shafts are hitting right where you want them is to consider a helical fletch. In laymen’s terms, a helical is a spiral fletch orientation that features a slight curve. There are different degrees of left- and right-helical, but my favorite is a 3-degree right helical. Why? It’s what I have the most confidence in, and years of testing have proven that the arrow spin created by this fletch orientation puts my fixed-blade heads on the mark at distances out to 100 yards. In addition, and, no, you don’t have to, but I use this fletch orientation when shooting my mechanical heads as well. I will take excellent arrow flight over speed any day of the week and twice on Sunday. Remember, the more twist you give that fletch, the more the arrow slows down, but a spiral fletch arrow will spin at twice the rate of a straight-fletched shaft, which significantly helps with broadhead stabilization and overall accuracy.

More on Vane Choice

I’ve found vane choice isn’t nearly as important as how that fletch goes onto the arrow. You could give yourself a panic attack trying to sift through every vane on the market. Again, purchase a few different vanes — high and low profile — short and up to 4 inches long. Make some different arrow builds and start shooting.

Three Fletch or Four Fletch?

Here’s another question not to lose any sleep over. I’ve killed piles of critters with my stick-and-string with three-fletch arrows. So, why are you seeing throngs of archers on outdoor television, YouTube and social media going the four-fletch route? It’s what’s trending right now. Of course, that’s not the only reason. I spent three months going back and forth between three- and four-fletch shafts. I discovered that out to 40 yards shooting both mechanical and fixed blade broadheads; there was no noticeable difference in arrow accuracy. Beyond 40 yards when shooting fixed-blade heads, the four-fletch design, which allows you to shoot a lower profile vane and improve arrow performance in the wind, did up fixed-blade accuracy. When shooting mechanical heads, I found zero difference out to 80 yards when shooting four-fletch groups head-to-head against three-fletch groups. Between 80 and 100 yards, the four-fletch did group slightly better with mechanical heads, but not enough for me to go on and on about. The four-fletch arrows showed their power when steering fixed and mechanical heads in crosswinds between 10 and 20 mph. The four-fletched arrows spin and stabilize the arrow a tad faster, which helped with windy day accuracy.

In Conclusion

Get a quality fletching jig like the Bitzenburger, along with a few different clamps, and start building. The great thing about the Bitzenburger is its bulletproof build, and with just a slight screw adjustment, you can vary the degree of your vane spacing and build three- and four-fletch arrows. In addition to the jig system, drop some coin on different fletch options and start building and shooting shafts. Don’t stop until you create the ultimate arrow build.

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