Consistent bow accuracy is a puzzle that requires fitting a lot of odd-shaped pieces together. Bow fit and comfort are like the corner pieces that create the frame for filling in the rest.

These two factors, not coincidentally, are where a lot of bowhunters go wrong. A bow that doesn’t fit correctly, whether a new $1,500 rig or a cheap garage sale find, is going to promote poor form and reduce not only overall accuracy, but enjoyment of the shooting process as well.

When it comes to buying a new bow, especially from a pro shop, this should never be an issue because it should be set up to your specs. A used bow can be a vastly different story, particularly if you don’t buy it from a reputable source.

Here’s what you need to know if you’re going to buy a used bow outside the comfortable confines of your local pro shop.

Buy Gently Used

If you’re not interested in dropping serious coin on a bow but still want an upgrade or are looking to get into the archery game for the first time, there are quality options on the used market. There’s a small subset of the bowhunting population who can’t stand not having the latest, greatest new bow right when it comes out, and their used bows often boast low mileage and plenty of TLC.

There’s also a fair supply of bows on the used market from folks who believed they’d get into bowhunting, but ran for the hills when they figured out that killing a mature buck requires repetitive failure and a lot of time commitment. So, they move on to other pursuits — but not before recouping some of the cost of their archery dabbling.

Then there are the bows hanging on the garage walls and stashed on dusty shelves in basements all across the country. In any case, the used bow opportunity is real and can be a cost-effective way to get in the game.

That’s the upside. On the other hand you could end up buying a total piece of crap and ruining any chance of hitting a deer or having any fun at all.

A severely out-of-tune bow looks an awful lot like a perfect tack driver, which means if you’re entertaining the thought of buying a used rig anywhere other than a trusted pro shop, see if you can take it in for an inspection from someone who knows bows. They’ll be able to tell you what it’ll cost to get it spruced up, or if there is something majorly wrong like a cracked limb, bent cam or other issues that might require major attention.

Cost vs. Value

The main benefit of shopping for a used bow is cost, but this cash saving thought process can end up backfiring like it might for a first-time buyer on the stock market. A new investor might look at the price of the individual stock versus the value of the company. A $1.00 share price for some up-and-coming tech company might seem like a screaming deal, while another more established, revenue generating machine might be more intimidating at $500 a share. One looks cheap and the other expensive, but one is a gamble while the other is a proven winner.

With bows, you have to be careful about trying to save money to the point where you sacrifice performance. This goes for hand-me-downs as well. While the cost might be just right, the value to you as a bowhunter can be zero. In either case, ridiculously cheap (or free) bows, are priced so for a reason. Do a little internet sleuthing on the rig you’re looking at so you understand if the price is in line with market value or if there are any red flags that warn you off a potential purchase.

Bow Specs

Forget arrow speed, kinetic energy and the other highlights you’re likely to hear about in marketing speak when it comes to bows. For the used-bow shopper, fit is everything. If a bow doesn’t match your draw length and isn’t adjustable to a comfortable draw weight, you need to pass. Nothing will cause you more shooting headaches than a draw that is too short or too long.

When it comes to draw weight, too light is better than too heavy. But really, you want a bow that not only meets your state’s minimum requirements, but one you can also draw straight back without any exaggerated motion. If you have to sky-pull it or you struggle to break over, the draw weight is too much. If you can’t back it down any lower because it’s already at the bottom end of the range, then you’re essentially shooting the archery version of the big game rifle with a recoil so violent it produces pre-shot wincing and even a few tears at the range.

Again we return to pro shops and the advice they offer. If the bow you’re interested in can’t be tuned or can’t be adjusted to fit you, it’s not a good deal no matter how cheap. Consult with trusted pros and when you do make a purchase, whether in their shop or online, reward them with your post-purchase business. You’ll be happy you did, because not only will you get a used rig that works for you, but you’ll get follow-up advice on form, accessories and all of the other things that complete the puzzle.

But first, make sure you get those corner pieces squared away.

How do you make sure that you can save some money, but still pick up a quality bow? Can you really get a great bow at a bargain price and avoid throwing money away on an accident waiting to happen? A common question we get asked is: Should I buy a used bow?

The simple answer is that while it is possible to get a good deal on a used bow, you really need to know what you’re doing when shopping around for one. It’s important to carefully inspect every aspect of any prospective bow for signs of damage, and if possible, get the bow looked over by a professional before you buy.

Don’t worry, we’ll cover all the bases here, so let’s get started …

Do Your Research

Before going out to buy any used bow, it pays to do your research into the following areas:

Manufacturers – What are the best bows on the market, and what are the quality features you can expect?

Prices – Understand the amount you can expect to pay for a new bow (with all your desired accessories), so you know if you’re getting a bargain price in the secondhand market.

Reviews – Check out what people have been saying about these bows, their potential flaws and any recalls.

Replacement Parts – Be sure that all the bow’s replacement parts are still available and affordable. Otherwise, you won’t be able to maintain your bow in top condition.

You can research in advance of looking for a used bow to create a shopping list of potential makes and models. Alternatively, you can research after you find a model for sale to see if it is worth pursuing. The first approach works well if you want a high-end bow at the best price, and the second works better if you’re on a fixed budget.

Know Your Parameters

If you are an experienced archer looking to upgrade your bow, then you already know your basics of:

• Your dominant eye
• Which hand is your bow hand
• Your draw length
• Your draw weight

If you are looking for your first bow, then it’s worth having a session with a bow technician either at an archery club or shop to figure out exactly what these are. Whether you’re right or left handed doesn’t really matter with crossbows, but with a recurve, compound or longbow it’s important. Don’t try to save money by trying to shoot a left handed bow if you’re right handed! Why make things harder than they need to be?

Draw Length

Your draw length is simply your total arm span (from your right fingertips to your left) divided by 2.5. Your body will determine your draw length, and therefore, the size of bow you can handle comfortably. Draw length matters when buying a compound bow, recurve bow or longbow. When you know your draw length, you can consult a chart to find your bow size – the proper bow size varies between the different bow types. Some charts offer guidance on bow length with your height, but you’ll get a better fit for you if you go by your arm span instead. The bow you are looking at needs to fit your draw length or have an adjustable draw length to fit you properly.

Draw Weight

The draw weight you start with as a beginner is not permanent, because regular practice builds up your muscle strength to your ideal draw weight over time. Your draw weight is going to be different depending on the type of bow you choose. You can fit a crossbow with a mechanical crank instead of using the cocking stirrup if you have trouble cocking it by using your muscles, but all of the other bow types require physical strength to draw back.

If you don’t know your draw weight, try and get it assessed by a professional. Otherwise, you can start with a beginner draw weight based on your age, gender and bow type. Don’t be tempted to get a bow with a heavier draw weight in the hope that you’ll grow into it. This is what’s called being overbowed.

Being overbowed means:

• You get tired quickly and don’t enjoy your practice time.
• You can’t shoot enough arrows to benefit from practice because of muscle fatigue.
• You don’t adopt a good shooting stance and acquire bad habits because the bow is wrong for you.

It’s better to get started with a bow that suits your current capabilities and accept that you may outgrow it and need to upgrade later. Some bows give you the option of increasing the draw weight over time. Takedown bows let you simply buy new limbs when you need to increase the draw weight while compound bows have a range of draw weights that the bow can be tuned to.

Knowing your parameters gives you a checklist to use when you’re shopping for potential used bow bargains. No one buys shoes that don’t fit, and it should be the same when it comes to your bow. Your body won’t thank you for making it struggle against an ill-fitting bow.

Finding a Used Bow

There are plenty of sources for secondhand bows, but you want to be careful about making sure that you’re picking up a functioning bow and not an expensive paperweight.

Archery Shop

Many archery shops offer a trade in service for the customer who wants to upgrade to the latest and best bow. As a result, you can sometimes buy a used bow from the shop at a fraction of the cost of a new model. Plus, most shops will check for condition and maintenance and may offer some form of warranty or return policy.

Buy Local

Ideally, you are going to inspect the bow before you consider buying it. If you can, arrange for your seller to meet you at an archery shop or with a bow technician so you can pay for a professional inspection before negotiating the purchase. The small cost of inspection helps make sure you are not going to make an expensive mistake, and the bow technician can give you an assessment of the cost of any necessary refurbishment or repairs.

Even if you can’t get to an archery shop, it’s still better to physically examine the bow yourself before buying, to check the condition and get some additional information from the seller.

Sight Unseen

The internet puts you in touch with sellers you may never meet. Not examining any bow before you buy it is a risk. You may get a bow with cracks and damage that you simply couldn’t see in the photos. If you can’t examine the bow yourself or arrange for an examination, then don’t pay more than you can afford to lose.

You can minimize your exposure to a bad purchase by checking the seller reviews and asking plenty of questions about the bow’s history. You don’t want a bow that has been stored in a garage for a couple of years, or worse, inadvertently acquire a stolen bow.

Inspect It Carefully

Whether you want your bow for hunting or target practice, you need it to function safely. A careful fingertip and visual assessment – checking each component for potential damage, lets you see if there are reasons for you to pass on buying the bow.

Although you can replace all the components (theoretically), it all adds additional expenses that may make it less of a bargain. There are plenty of used bows out there, keep in mind that you’re buying a bow secondhand, not substandard.

Limbs

You’re looking for hairline cracks and any evidence of twisting or warping. A poor shooting technique by the former owner can put torque on the bow and pull the limbs out of alignment. The kinetic energy backlash from a dry fire can also damage the limb’s physical condition.

Cams System

You’re looking for damage (chips, dents, cracks) and signs of uneven wear. Cams are also susceptible to damage from dry fires.

Bow String

Check along the bowstring for evidence of fraying, uneven wear (near the cams) and any broken threads. Ask about the last restringing, so you can decide if you need an immediate restring or can get some test shots in first.

Other Components

Look at every component on the bow: the arrow rests, sights and any accessories that attach. Check them all for damage and condition, as these give you a clue to how the seller treated the bow. You want to buy a treasured possession – the equivalent of one careful owner if you were buying a car.

See It in Action

If you can, get the seller to demonstrate that the bow works properly. While the bow is in use, listen for any odd noises and vibrations. Also have them hold the bow at full draw while you inspect it, as many compound bows will only show that they’re out of alignment when they’re at full draw. Be sure to take a few shots yourself, if possible. You should be able to tell if you have a “feel” for the bow.

Ask Plenty of Questions

As part of the buying process, ask as many questions as possible, and pay attention to the answers. Some of the best questions to ask include:

• Why is the bow for sale?
• When was it last serviced?
• What has it been used for?
• How often did you shoot it?
• Where did the seller buy it?
• Was it bought new?
• Have there been any modifications?
• Has it ever been dry fired?

The current owner may be upgrading, abandoning the sport, or getting rid of the bow because it is no longer accurate or has suffered damage. It’s imperative that you find out which one! A bow in use daily for several hours wears much differently to one with less frequent or only seasonal use.

All your questions have one goal to figure out: Has anything happened to this bow that means it is no longer safe to use, or at the end of its useful life?

Affordable New Bows

While it is possible to find a good deal on a used bow, there are plenty of high quality, affordable bows on the market today.

Keep in mind that even if you were to buy a lower priced used bow, once you add in the costs of additional gear (arrows, sights, etc.) and any re-tuning at an archery shop – it can often add up to the cost of a brand new higher end bow.

When buying a new bow, you’re assured that you’re not buying a broken or damaged bow. You’ll be covered by the online store’s return policy, and most quality bow manufacturers today include a warranty on their bows at no additional cost.

Before you buy a used bow, check out some of the bows that are high quality, affordable and available online. 

Used vs. New

Buying a used bow offers the possibility of picking up a high-end bow at a low price. If you’re an experienced archer and either have access to a bow technician or bow maintenance skills yourself, you can get a significant savings on a bow costing several hundred dollars.

If you’re a beginner or just want a reliable bow that you can take into the field or on the range, don’t discount the new bow market. There are more and more great bows that are very affordable being released every year.

Also, package deals are much more economical, as you get everything you need for one fixed price. Plus, you know that the bow doesn’t have any hidden issues from its previous life.

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