Oh yes, the ubiquitous “leg steak” you get back from the processors. Due to the large number of deer many processors receive at once, not to mention the fact that no one demands better from them, they’ll often take a whole leg and just buzz it through the bandsaw. If ever there was a reason to butcher your own meat, it’s this “steak” which consists of several different cuts of meat surrounding a small round bone. Each of these cuts, which can include the bottom round, top round, eye of round, and sirloin tip, cook at different rates, have different textures, and are surrounded by membranes that shrink when cooked, causing the dreaded pan-buckle. Searing or grilling these things just doesn’t work out very well.

But hey, many of us end up with these steaks, so what should we do with them? I recommend braising them. Although neck, shank, and shoulder cuts are better suited to braising than cuts from the hindquarters, this style of cooking will produce a reliable fork-tender bite every time.
Ingredients for the Steaks:
- 1 or 2 leg steaks (depending on size) Kosher salt
- 2 tablespoons lard or oil
- 1 large onion, chopped
- 6 cloves garlic, minced
- 2 tablespoons fresh rosemary, chopped
- 10 juniper berries, crushed
- 1⁄2 cup dried porcini mushrooms, roughly chopped
- Black pepper
- 2 cups red wine
- 2 cups venison stock or water
- Chopped parsley to garnish
For the Mash:
- 1 lb celeriac, peeled and cubed
- 1 lb russet potatoes, peeled and cubed
- 1/2 cup cream or milk 1/4 cup butter
- 1/2 teaspoon finely minced garlic
- 2 tablespoons grated parmesan cheese
- Salt and pepper for seasoning
Serves: 4
Time to make: 4 hours
Directions:
- Preheat oven to 300°F.
- Season the leg steak(s) generously with salt on both sides.
- Add the lard or oil to a Dutch oven over high heat. Add the leg steak(s) and sear until very brown on both sides (you may need to cut the steaks into smaller pieces to fit into the pot). Remove the steaks and set aside.
- Reduce heat to medium-high. Add the onions and cook for about 5 minutes, or until starting to brown. Add the garlic, rosemary, juniper berries, porcini mushrooms, and a few cranks (or a pinch) of black pepper. Cook, stirring often, for 2 minutes. Add the wine and deglaze the pan, scraping up any bits stuck to the bottom. Add the stock and bring to a strong simmer. Cover the pot and transfer to the oven. Cook for 3 hours.
- Carefully remove the steak(s) and set aside on a plate. Set the pot back over medium-high heat and simmer the liquid until it thickens – think a thin gravy consistency.
- Meanwhile, boil the celeriac and potatoes until tender. Mash with cream, butter, garlic, Parmesan cheese, and salt and pepper to taste.
- Serve the meat over the mash, drizzled with the reduced juices and scattered with parsley. Enjoy!
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